In the first of a series of articles going behind the scenes at some of the winners of the 2024 World’s Best Wine Lists Awards, Nicolas Laguette, Director of Wines at Atmosphere Core, explains how he and his team put together the Best All-Inclusive Wine List in Asia at Ozen Reserve Bolifushi, Kaafu Atoll, Maldives.
What does winning a WBWL award mean to you at The Ozen Collection?
It is sincerely the ultimate recognition after over half a decade of being constantly told “that’s just not possible.” Being a fully all-inclusive collection of resorts in the Maldives, without any fine-print or time-imposed limitations regarding the beverage options which our guests can enjoy, there were some truly imposing challenges to overcome on the journey to achieve recognition at this level of wine excellence
We are sincerely grateful for the innovative nature shown by The World Of Fine Wine to introduce the Best All-Inclusive Wine List as an awards category this year, for the first time since its inception in 2014. Although in its nascent state on the global stage, this category is certain to become incredibly competitive in upcoming years since the experience of wine really develops an entirely new dimension when price is removed from the equation; guests are able to travel the world, one sip at a time, while simultaneously indulging in the masterful vinous creations of winemakers from the most recognized estates in one hand, and discover terroir on the other hand through the naturally unique expression of wine sourced from the most secluded regions imaginable.
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What are you trying to achieve with your list at The Ozen Collection?
Our objective is to offer a memorable wine journey for all guests visiting us from around the world—everyone likes something different and so breadth is arguably the most important factor when it comes to designing a world-class wine list with all-inclusive operations in mind. We work tirelessly to ensure all our guests can enjoy traditional wines, commercial wines, terroir wines, rustic wines, and even discover new wines—that’s the key, luxury is in having the choice.
At The Ozen Collection we seek to provide all our guests with an authentic experience, but also contribute to their own journey in expanding their world of wine by pouring the labels they know & love, side by side with different bottles from around the world. For example, a guest who adores a Torrontés from Argentina may be inclined to also enjoy a Spanish Albariño and so we would offer that tasting experience; or if the wine of choice is a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc then this experience could be enhanced by trying Tenerife’s autochthonous grape variety Marmajuelo as well—again I say, luxury is in having the choice.
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What do you feel is the biggest strength of your list at The Ozen Collection?
The biggest strength of our list is its variety & diversity, especially considering its All-Inclusive nature. On top of offering terroir-driven wines from boutique wineries, we also have champagne, Marchesi Antinori, and Cotes de Provence in the all-inclusive minibar of all our villas at The Ozen Collection properties, with one refill per day, so when it comes to legacy wines for example, guests already have that in the comfort of their own rooms.
We import all our wine ourselves, directly from the wineries around the world. Maybe 5% of our wines we procure from third-party suppliers in Malé, and for the other 95% we establish agreements with wineries directly and handle all logistics ourselves. Also, we only bring the wine for our own resorts, and we don’t sell to other properties outside our group so we can truly tailor an unmatched wine experience.
Since we control our wine import structure entirely, over the last 3 years we have been focusing on building our In-House wine culture by partnering with family-owned wineries, driven by terroir and who express the joy of giving in their way of working. It is through this program that we achieved to become the first to ever import and pour Canary Wine in the Maldives, straight from a fifth-generation producer in Spain’s Canary Island of Tenerife. Additionally, in 2023 and in 2024, and thanks to the relentless support of our Canary Wine partner Bodegas Viñátigo, we were able to launch our “In-Vineyard” concept whereby we send resort F&B service colleagues to participate in a week-long wine trip to Tenerife. Furthermore, this inspired us to achieve the same with our Champagne partner and fourth-generation producer hailing from the premier cru village of Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ, Champagne Guy Charbaut. Through these fantastic wine trips to Spain and France, our colleagues become true wine storytellers and they constantly share their experiences to the amazement of our resort guests.
What are three wines on your list that you feel best represent what you’re trying to do at The Ozen Collection?
For a white wine, without a doubt I would suggest a Spanish label since in my humble opinion, Spain is the most undervalued wine region in the world today, and we have given the wines from this country a significant push at The Ozen Collection.
From Tenerife, Bodegas Viñátigo’s Malvasia Aromática—Canary Wine made from 100% Malvasia Aromática was in fact Shakespeare’s favorite wine, he even writes about it in his plays. The British Royal family would pay him partly in barrels of this wine shipped directly from Tenerife, and the UK would import so much wine and other goods from the Canary Islands that they dedicated an entire port in London for this, called Canary Wharf.
For a memorable rosé, you must have, from Champagne, Guy Charbaut’s Rosé Brut 1er Cru NV. This is our arrival pour at The Ozen Collection and one of the main reasons behind its incredible success is the fact that it’s a maceration rosé. It is made up of 90% Pinot Noir and the vibrant rose color is achieved through a short maceration of about 6 hours of the crushed dark grape skins together with the white grape juice. This also extracts enticing berry flavors and a voluptuous texture, and to balance there is 10% Chardonnay added for freshness and finesse… honestly, you’ll struggle to find a Champagne better suited for the Maldives!
Red wine is a bit more complicated in the Maldives due to the weather encouraging more the consumption of white & rosé wines; red wine represents less than 20% of our total wine consumption at The Ozen Collection. However, it plays a big role in the fine-dining experience and thus it is imperative to tailor a red wine selection considering all these factors. Our flagship red wine is without a doubt, from Stellenbosch, Glenelly Estate’s Lady May.
May de Lencquesaing, the estate owner, turned 99 this year and remains as active and involved as ever. She was born into one of the most prominent wine families in Bordeaux and, as the sixth generation, inherited Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in her 50s. During her 30 years managing the estate, she oversaw some of the most challenging but also the best vintages ever. In her 70s and having achieved a spectacular career in wine, she sold her château in Bordeaux and started a new winery in Stellenbosch. Breaking free from the strict requirements of Bordeaux’s winemaking methods, May sought creativity and authentic expression of the same grape varietals her family had mastered for centuries. She planted the vineyard from scratch after meticulous soil analysis and wanted to use the raw power of South Africa’s most respected wine terroir to achieve the world’s best expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. Lady May, Glenelly Estate’s flagship wine named in her honor, was created after a lifetime of her experience and dreams. It has since gained worldwide acclaim, earning numerous international awards.
What is your favorite wine and food pairing based on a wine and a dish served at your establishment?
Every year since 2021, we invite the winery owners and/or winemakers of our wine partners to visit our resorts in the Maldives, to deliver authentic wine experiences for our guests and provide direct training exposure to our colleagues. The Charbaugato, invented and launched during our inaugural Champagne Guy Charbaut Masterclasses, has since become our signature dessert and an icon of gastronomy at The Ozen Collection. Our very own twist on the affogato, we invite our guests to pour Champagne Guy Charbaut Croquantine Demi-Sec into a coupette glass with a scoop of tropical fruit sorbet (best with mango and chilli flakes, topped with mint leaf) and enjoy a whole new way of experiencing Champagne.
Additionally, in 2023, during the third iteration of our Champagne Guy Charbaut Masterclasses at The Ozen Collection and with Mr and Mrs Charbaut present, we dared to challenge the norm and create an innovative gastronomic experience where terroir Champagne perfectly pairs with Indian fine gastronomy; we call it “Champagne and spice.” Our masterful chefs were able to seek out fabulous flavors from all corners of India to find marvelous pairings with Guy Charbaut’s 1er Cru Champagnes. “Champagne and Spice” has now become a must-have experience at The Ozen Collection and one of the most memorable pairings would have to be Champagne Guy Charbaut’s Cuvée de Réserve Brut 1er Cru NV together with “Beetroot Textures” which is beetroot galouti kebab, pickled baby beetroots, beetroot yogurt, and dehydrated beetroot crisps.
