The Henschke family describes 2022, the vintage in which it celebrated the 70th release of its Mt Edelstone Shiraz, as “exceptional” (for a review of the anniversary tasting of this original wine, see WFW 94 later this year). Rain in late January came at the ideal time. It was a later-than-average vintage, but produced wines of “great elegance, flavor intensity, and wonderful aging potential.”
Over the years, the family has not always released the wines from a particular vintage as a joint Collection. Hill of Grace, especially, seemed to enjoy longer in the cellar before it saw the light of day or a retail shelf. These days, it is across the board—and it certainly works.
2022 Hill of Peace Semillon (AUS$90)
The vines for this exceptional Semillon were planted in 1952 and form part of the famous Hill of Grace Vineyard. Contrary to conventional wisdom, that vineyard has a range of grape varieties planted within its confines, of varying ages, the most famous wine being sourced from a small patch of ancient Shiraz, but there is much more, including old Semillon vines. Viticulture and winemaking follows organic and biodynamic principles, with maturation in older French oak barriques for a period of five months. This is the first release of this wine since 2018. Hill of Peace actually refers to the local cemetery.
Related
A shining but very pale lemon hue. The nose gives notes of spices and citrus, with hints of minerality, dried herbs, florals, and grapefruit pith. Beautifully balanced, this is a slightly leaner style than some. A wine of elegance and refinement, with gentle fragrances, to me it has more in common with top Graves (which might be appropriate enough, given the origin of the name) than with most Hunter Semillon. There is a fine line of acidity here and the wine has an attractively lingering finish of medium length. It should provide pleasure until at least 2046. | 93
2022 Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon (AUS$210)
From the Cyril Henschke Vineyard in Eden Valley, maturation is in French oak hogsheads, 5% new, for a period of 20 months. First made in the 1978 vintage, it has since established itself as one of Australia’s finest Cabernets.
Content from our partners
Deep maroon. The nose reveals aromas of bay leaves, blackberries, coffee grinds, cloves, cranberries, hints of bergamot and dried herbs, cold tea, and charcuterie, with black fruits. There is an appealing savoriness throughout, with good intensity of flavor. The structure is slightly foursquare and austere at this stage, but there is serious length, with a supple texture and satiny tannins. A wine of focus and underlying concentration, this will drink beautifully until at least 2046. | 95
2022 The Wheelwright Shiraz (AUS$165)
This wine was first made as a tribute to Johann Christian Henschke, founder of the family business, to commemorate 150 years of winemaking. 100% Shiraz from the Wheelwright Vineyard, where organic and biodynamic practices are employed, and maturation is for a period of 20 months in French oak hogsheads, 10% new.
Magenta/purple. On the nose, we have notes of blackberries, tobacco leaves, cold tea, aniseed, beef stock, dusty dark chocolate, and cherries. Generous and approachable, there is a touch of plushness running through the wine, which is extremely well-balanced and has exceptional length, finishing with fine, velvety tannins. Intensity is maintained throughout, as is that seductive and seamless texture. Enjoy until around 2050. | 96
2022 Mount Edelstone Shiraz (AUS$300)
With this vintage, the Henschkes celebrate an astonishing 70 years of releases from this legendary Eden Valley vineyard. Maturation for this vintage was for 20 months in French oak hogsheads, 8% new.
Blood red/maroon. The nose is a veritable herb garden. The aromas weave through tobacco leaves, sage, chocolate, cinnamon, and nutmeg, with a touch of vanilla from the immaculately handled oak, bay leaves, black olives, and black fruits. The balance is knife-edge and the tannins as silky as one could wish. A wine of great length, which will surely sit among the very best from this extraordinary vineyard, when we look back on it. There is no reason to think this will not last for at least 30 years, until 2056 or so, although there is also no reason to wait that long. | 97
2022 Hill of Roses Shiraz (AUS$495)
For many, this is a baby Hill of Grace, as it comes from that vineyard’s young vines. Well, when we say young, they are 33 years young, which would be considered old by many wineries. The wine spends 20 months maturing in older French oak hogsheads. The team at Henschke won’t consider incorporating fruit from these vines in its famous older sibling until they are at least 35 years of age, but even that milestone will be no guarantee. The fruit will need to be of sufficient quality and to fit the style required. In the meantime, we have this wonderful Shiraz from the Eden Valley.
A gleaming purple/magenta, it is immediately obvious that this wine is still very much its youthful phase. There is good integration throughout, and the nose gives notes of chocolate, mocha, coffee beans, blackberries and blueberries, aniseed, cloves, cassis, and cocoa powder. This is a stunning Hill of Roses, with complexity, great length, and perfect balance, through to silky, cashmere-like tannins. A seductive and alluring texture completes the picture. Pristine and taut, this will be a star over the next 30 years, until at least 2056. Love it. Expect the score to nudge up a touch further. | 97
2022 Hill of Grace (AUS$1,100)
I have not scored this vintage of Hill of Grace quite as highly as many of the recent releases (we are talking wafer-thin margins at the very highest levels)—not because it is any less of a wine, quite the contrary, but because at the moment, it is so tight, coiled, and reticent that it simply will not give of itself what it eventually will. In ten, 20, or even 30 years, it will sit comfortably with any recent release, even the glorious 2021. The wine is, of course, from that famous patch of ancient vines in the Hill of Grace vineyard in the Eden Valley that was planted around 1860. Maturation is in older French oak hogsheads for 20 months. It is, as ever, an astonishing achievement.
A purple/maroon hue with a hint of the haze of the Blue Mountains. The nose offers black fruits, chocolate, florals, smoked meats, cloves, licorice, black olives, mocha, and coffee beans. A wine that is generous, still obviously very youthful, with serious concentration. On the palate, we see the emergence of blueberries and the herb-garden nature of the wine. There is immaculate balance and extraordinary length, through to firm, very fine tannins on a lingering finish. The wine is marginally more savory than in some vintages. There is good energy here and underlying power, which suggests that leaving the wine alone for the next five to eight years would be in everyone’s interests, before drinking it over the following 30 to 50—until 2076 or so—if you think you’ll be around that long. | 98
