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  1. Tasting Notes
February 7, 2025

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte Chalonnaise

Sarah Marsh MW continues her coverage of the 2023 Burgundy vintage with her notes on producers based in the Côte Chalonnaise.

By Sarah Marsh MW

CÔTE CHALONNAISERULLY

DOMAINE BELLEVILLE

Rully Premier Cru La Pucelle

The oak is showing on this plump Rully, which is creamy and rounded, with ripe-apricot fruit. Late-2025–28. 85–86

Rully Premier Cru Rabourcé

An inviting, ripe-citrus aroma. Fruity strike, with light apricot fruit and a silky texture. A slightly savory note balances the ripe fruit. I like the pithiness and energy. Late-2025–28. 86

CÔTE CHALONNAISE—MERCUREY

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DOMAINE ADÉLIE

Another of the Albert Bichot estates, 7.5ha (18.6 acres), certified organic. Bichot’s Technical Director Matthieu Mangenot mentioned that there was somewhat more rain and some hail in Mercurey.

White

Bourgogne Aligoté Champ Renard

From a parcel of 0.84ha (2.1 acres) at the entrance to the village, on a clay soil with a high proportion of silt and sand. Aged 70% in stainless steel, while 10% of the barrels are new. A remarkably ripe Aligoté, with yellow fruit and a creamy, viscous, rounded palate. Inviting. 2025–26. 82

Mercurey Les Champs Michaux

Situated on a plateau at 345m (1,130ft), this 1.2ha (3-acre) parcel has predominantly clay soil, with limestone rocks close to the surface. It is fermented and aged in barrels, 10% of which are new. Slightly earthy aromas lead into a rich, juicy, full-bodied, somewhat buttery palate, with an appealing, lime-fresh finish. 2025–27. 84

Red

Mercurey Tupina Bautista

A big, bold, quite oaky style from this domaine, but the fruit is clean and concentrated, and the tannin is ripe. Clearly a good selection of fruit and well-made.

Mercurey Premier Cru Les Champs Martin

Succulently ripe and fruity, rounded, quite full, and just lightly structured tannins. It is light and soft and easy. 2025–28. 86

Mercurey Premier Cru Le Clos du Roy

Dark, black-plum fruit, with peppery spice. Rich, thick tannins. A fullish and quite dense palate, with spice on the finish. Quite oaky, with plenty of extraction in evidence. A robust wine. 2026–30. 86

Mercurey Premier Cru Sazenay

Pure, red-cherry aroma. Zesty, lively spring on the palate. Juicy, ripe fruit. Crisp and punchy tannins and savory, salty to finish. Oaky, but among the best in the Mercurey tasting. 2026–30. 87

DOMAINE DE LA BRESSANDE

Mercurey Premier Cru Sazenay

Clean and pure, red-fruit aroma. This is slightly herbaceous. Straight and it has a nice minerality to the finish. 2025–28. 85–86

CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY

Amaury Devillard’s winemaker has been with him for five years. “July and part of August were complicated with the rain, and we had to wait until September 5, waiting for phenolic ripeness. In June, we thought we would harvest at the end of August. We threw out a lot of grapes. The reds were the big problem, with oidium and botrytis. We finished with 40hl/ha. We were at the limit in the winery, with no space left. No whole-bunch this year. For the whites, we whole-bunch pressed. The pH levels for the whites were 3–3.4, with 2g/l of malic acid. We had no spare tanks to separate the end of the press for the whites. The winemaking was the same as in 2021, but the result is very different.” This tasting was made from just one barrel of each cuvée, so can only be seen as a very general indication of each wine.

White

Mercurey Blanc En Pierrelet

Quite richly fruity and nicely zesty, with a fizzle of citrus freshness to finish. 2024–26. 83

Mercurey Blanc Premier Cru La Mission (Monopole)

Upright and cucumber fresh, this spends 18 months in barrel before being assembled and held in tanks for a while before bottling. Juicy strike. Attractive density, certainly some grip and layering. An appealing juxtaposition of cold stone and warm fruit, and inviting bitterness and sapidity on the finish. Very good. 2026–32. 89

Red

Mercurey Premier Cru Champs Martin

A parcel with a southerly exposure. A very juicy and expressive aroma, with a rich, satin glide and a smooth depth of tannin. This combines richness with elegance. My favorite red here, together with En Sazenay. 2026–30. 88

Mercurey Premier Cru Clos L’Evêque

From a climat with a light, pebbly soil, this is slightly more southeast-facing, at the top of a very gentle slope. I find it more charming than the Clos du Roi, with a finer grain of tannin and a nice, fresh, breezy note to balance the ripe, red fruit. A touch of mint to finish. Modest intensity, but it has an easy charm. 2026–30. 85

Mercurey Premier Cru Clos du Roi

From a parcel toward the bottom of the climat, where the soil is deeper, south-facing but low down, so I am not sure how sunny it gets in this part. Baked fruit, gutsy, warm, rich, black, and spicy. Licorice richness, a herbal grip, and an edge of charcoal bitterness to finish. It’s rather robust. Touch rustic. 2026–30. 85–86

Mercurey Premier Cru En Sazenay

From a southeast-facing parcel rich in clay. Up-right and up-toned red-fruit aroma. Lighter bodied wine, with silky tannin. A fluid wine in which the silky, supple texture, the fruit, and the salinity entwine as it stretches into quite an elegant finish. 2026–30. 88

Mercurey Premier Cru Clos des Ruelles Monopole

From a red soil, due to oxidized iron. Grabs with energy and freshness. Quite dynamic. Punchy, with a rich, earthy character. Both richness and freshness. 2026–35. 87

DOMAINE JEAN-PIERRE CHARTRON

Mercurey Premier Cru Le Clos du Roy

Red-fruit, vibrant aroma, and on the palate, super-juicy, with firm tannins and piquant to finish. Lighter style. Pleasant. 2025–30. 85

DOMAINE GROFFIER

I have tried Groffier’s white Champ Martin from vines at the top of the slope, which I really liked in 2022. In the samples of 2023 reds, the tannins were a bit astringent.

Mercurey Premier Cru Les Champs Martin

Rich, dark fruit, with firm and slightly robust tannin. Slightly licorice astringency to the tannin. Needs a little time. Sturdy, with plenty of ripe, black fruit on the finish. 2026–30. 85

DOMAINE MICHEL JULLIOT

Mercurey Premier Cru Clos de Barraults

Ripe, red fruit, juicy and generous. More structure, and more compact than the Clos du Roy, with firmer tannins and a lively finish. 2026–30. 86–87

Mercurey Premier Cru Le Clos du Roy

Soft, red fruit and more exotic spices. A lighter bodied, gently rounded, and fruity expression of Clos du Roy, with soft tannins. Very approachable. 2026–28. 85

DOMAINE MEIX-FULOT

Mercurey Premier Cru Les Montaigus

I like the sweet cherry and the hint of roasted almonds. It has a pleasant bitterness and plenty of energy. Good acidity and crunchy fruit to finish. Nice job. 2026–30. 86

Mercurey Premier Cru Veleys

Soft and fruity; rounded and quite plummy. The tannins are a bit rustic and a little dilute but this is a pleasant, honest wine. 2025–28. 85

CÔTE CHALONNAISE—GIVRY

DOMAINE CHOFFLET

The domaine has passed down through generations of sons-in-law. Jonathan Brunot has made the wine since 2019.

Givry Premier Cru En Choué

Ripe, fragrant, strawberry aroma, soft and succulent, with easy tannin, playing more to the light and aromatic side. It’s pleasant and aromatic. 2026–28. 84

DOMAINE DESVIGNES

Now in its fifth generation, in Jambles, this domaine has 10ha (25 acres). Clearly pursuing full ripeness.

Givry Premier Cru La Grand Berge

Bright, red-cherry aroma to a very appealing, red-fruited palate, with a light, crisp tannin, and a touch floral on the finish. Pleasant, crunchy, and light-footed wine. 2026–28. 84

MICHEL SARRAZIN ET FILS

Givry Premier Cru Bois Cheveaux

Fruity and juicy aroma, with a touch of oak showing. Very ripe fruit, baked cherry, but well-balanced, with good intensity mid-palate and a smooth glide of tannin. Harmonious. 2026–30. 84

2023 Burgundy: Abundant variability

2023 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards

2023 Burgundy: Chablis with a sunny disposition

2023 Burgundy: Chablis tasting notes

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Marsannay and Fixin

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Gevrey-Chambertin

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Morey-St-Denis

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Nuits-St-Georges

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Pernand Vergelesses, Savigny-lès-Beaune, and Aloxe-Corton

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Beaune

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Pommard

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Volnay

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Meursault

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Monthelie and Auxey-Duresses

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Puligny-Montrachet and St-Aubin

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Chassagne-Montrachet

2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Santenay and Cheilly-lès-Maranges

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