Richard Mayson reports on the Symington family’s latest addition to the Graham’s stable, a 50 Year Old Tawny Port which completes the shippers ladder of aged Tawnies.
Among fortified wines, Tawny Port has been one of the great success stories, with sales having increased by 70% over the past decade. The category has expanded, too, with the 50 Year Old category having been added to the Tawny ladder in 2022. This has put pressure on some shippers without good, well-cared-for stocks to buy up more wine. But Graham’s, with 200 years of winemaking history (over half a century under Symington family tutelage) has the heritage and is backed by the stocks to produce some flawless Tawny Ports. It now has a complete ladder of Tawnies, starting with The Tawny (a Reserve), extending through 10, 20, 30, 40, and culminating in a newly launched 50 year old. Head winemaker Charles Symington was on hand to shed background on the newly launched wine at a dinner in London earlier this year.
He asserts that the character and consistency of a good Tawny relies on three key elements: cooperage, aging, and blending. When it comes to cooperage, the Symington family (who also own Cockburn, Dow, and Warre) employ seven coopers to maintain their substantial stocks of wooden casks and vats. Aging takes place in “lodge pipes,” casks around 600 liters in capacity, stored in cool Port lodges with relatively high levels of humidity at Vila Nova de Gaia. During this period, it is important that the wines are regularly monitored to ensure that their evolution is consistent and that the wine in question is capable of prolonged aging in cask. Any wine that doesn’t have the persistence will be blended and bottled off earlier in the Tawny ladder.
For 50 years, the blending at Graham has been the responsibility of Peter Symington (now aged 80), followed by his son Charles. This deep family involvement ensures consistency in the wines. Two components of the 50-Year-Old blend have particular significance for the family. The first is a wine from 1969, originally designated “CAS Reserve,” which was set aside by Peter Symington to mark the birth of his son. The second is a parcel or lote from 1970 and 1973, which was blended in 1982. Over half of this evaporated over the ensuing period, which gives this wine its remarkable richness and concentration (with a Baumé reading of 7.3).
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Founded in 1820, the Graham Port house was purchased by the Symingtons in 1970, so these two wines were some of the first made my members of the family. (Vintage Port enthusiasts will recall that the late James Symington was responsible for making the Graham’s 1970, which is consistently one of the best Vintage Ports from the second half of the 20th century). Based on Quinta dos Malvedos, which was acquired by the Graham family in 1890, Graham’s now draws on wines from four other quintas (Tua, Lages, Vila Velha, and Vale de Malhadas).
Tasting
Graham’s 40 Year Old
Pale brick-red-tawny, with a golden-green-tinged amber rim; wonderfully effusive on the nose, with a delicate spicy lift and an aroma and flavor redolent of creamy Brazil nuts, mellifluous dried fruit, fresh and seamless all the way through to a long, oh so delicate, filigree finish. Some Tawnies of this age can be over-sweet and ponderous but (at 5.4 Baumé) this has perfect balance and poise. | 98
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Graham’s 50 Year Old
Remarkable color, slightly deeper than the 40 Year Old, with amber-red to walnut brown at its core, with a characteristic green tinge to the broad, amber-tawny rim. Spellbindingly uplifting on the nose, with delicate blossom, dried fruit, and butterscotch aromas, showing off the beautiful piquancy of age; gloriously rich, with a sublime, creamy mouthfeel and freshness that belies its age, leathery, spicy complexity (nutmeg, cinnamon) mid-palate, seamlessly leading to a graceful finish that seems to go on forever. This is a wine that immediately impresses you with its textural richness and focus on the palate, yet it is its overall delicacy, finesse, and perfect poise on the finish that really resonate. There can be only one mark for a wine with this provenance and caliber. | 100
