Andrew Jefford | Pale, bright gold. An earthy, soil-rich reading of the variety; lots of planty excitement here, though it is much less exotically sweet in scent than most. Full, lively (plenty of acidity for a Gewurz here), vivid, and almost fresh in style: a juicy fruity Gewurz rather than a spice-bomb odalisque. Agreeable, though not particularly ambitious. | 88

Charles Metcalfe | Lean, tight, a touch of honey on the nose, but not much else. This is lemony and tight, with a distinct honey character, almost with concentration of propolis, or “bee glue.” The palate is lean and lemony, suggesting this has quite a way to go. But it’s not the right moment to drink this yet. I’d wait two or three years and hope for a less angular wine. | 89

Jancis Robinson | Deep bright straw. Light, rather simple nose. Quite evolved and then green and leafy on the palate. A bit loose and smudgy on the end. Doesn’t quite hang together yet. A bit glucose and simple. Drink 2018–21. | 88