Andrew Jefford | Steel green-silver. Slightly dry, cardboardy scents. Some spiced apple fruit, but it lacks subtlety, richness, and appeal. On the palate, the character is similar—that cardboardy (filter- pad?) note is unbecoming. The fruit quality isn’t bad, though, and there is some winning sweet rose on the palate, too. You could certainly recognize it and enjoy it, but without finer aromatics it’s not really a contender today. | 83

Charles Metcalfe | Pretty dumb and closed on the nose. Young and rather tightly shuttered at present. There’s good weight and good acidity to balance the sugar and an underlying intensity. But this needs five years or so to reach a more drinkable moment. | 89

Jancis Robinson | Mid-straw. Indistinct syrupy nose. Sweetness rather dominates everything, though there is some freshness on the end. Lightly bitter. Just not quite enough distinctive flavor—more sugar+acid+bitterness. Drink 2017–21. | 87