Bruno Besa | Deep garnet to orange. Open, youthful red- and black-fruit nose, herbal with nuts and violets. Balanced palate; clean red fruit with a slightly simplistic finish. | 90

Stephen Brook | Deep in color for Nebbiolo. Lush cherry nose, at the darker end of the aromatic spectrum. Broad and fleshy, not immediately suggestive of La Morra, but this has splendid ripe fruit and swagger on the mid-palate. Good but not raucous acidity, enhancing a wine that shows personality rather than subtlety. Approachable yet has the structure and tannin to ensure an interesting evolution in bottle. What I don’t find at present is great clarity of fruit, but no matter—there’s plenty going on here. | 91

Andrew Jefford | Deep, dark brick-red. Some slightly alien oak-sweetening here, but behind that there are other notes, too—of wild mushrooms and warm bricks in the sunshine, and ripe plums in a bowl. Intense, with ample slightly lactic acidity evoking a kind of yogurt note, and generous tannins. It’s a wine that leaves me nonplussed in that it has both admirable and less admirable qualities in equal measure. Good-quality raw materials nonetheless, and there are both complexities and concentration here. | 87