Stephen Brook: Muted nose, with a green tone, Granny Smiths. Quite rich, plump, ample fruit, but rather soft-edged. Has fair acidity yet lacks some bite and vigour. Not that persistent either. Agreeable, but not much more. 13.5

Jancis Robinson: Firm, compact aromas convincing. Some residual sugar here and a great deal of evolved fruit. Quite big and certainly easy to appreciate. An early bloomer, but one that could make converts. 14.5

Alexander Scott: Much riper than the Rauenthaler Baiken, and more creamy-textured, but with no lack of thrust. This feels like a much better and sunnier vineyard site. Good stuff, if not the class of the best. 12.5