Stephen Brook: Rich nose, white peach, quite leesy. Fine attack, taut and racy, citric, compact; has dash rather than succulence. Perhaps a tad aggressive, but I like the frankness and d irectness. Long, nutty finish. But this will prove an acquired taste to many. 17

Jancis Robinson: Smells of cellar rather than vineyard. Very dry and slightly hard work. No shortage of alcohol but a slight shortage of charm. Hard. 14

Alexander Scott: Marked bean-pod aroma. Was this picked at the right moment, or is there too much skin soaking? Intense and rewarding on the palate, though. Hmmm... 14