Andrew Jefford: Full central gold. Sophisticated, very 'southern' aromas, with lots of super-ripe scents coming to gether very elegantly, with an almost Cologne-like sheen, orangey with a hint of clove or nutmeg, which is a function of course not of oak but of fruit ripeness. Polished and enticing. Wonderful concentration of driving, perfumed fruit. A wine both bracing and in vigorating, yet long and complex, with dense, tightly packed fruits slowly unfolding towards a gently mineral finish. Compelling drinking. 18

Simon Larkin : More green-gold in appearance. The aromas suggest ripe citrus with floral overtones, with a gently perfumed edge. The palate shows considerable ripeness, again green apple, though bruised and browning, almost cider apple. The acidity is marked but balances reasonably well. Some mineral traces, too, and good persistence. But harmony? Lacking (sadly). 13

Alexander Scott: A change of character. More flamboyant ripeness, even a very discreet touch of exoticism from super-ripe grapes. This translates into slightly greater heat on the palate, but there is also a firm core of austerity here. Longish. Fine, but no great complexity apparent at this stage. 15