Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A wine that, once again this year, remains very enigmatic at this stage. It took several tastings before we grasped its full potential, and as usual, it will be some years before it is ready to reveal all. Potentially, this is an exquisitely refined, long and slender wine, beautifully understated with not a trace of heaviness. 17

Margaret Rand: Grown-up, serious white. Some oak and a lot of nutty fruit leading to a very long finish. 17

Michael Schuster: Pale lemon. Fine cedary oak over grapefruit and ripe guava Sauvignon on the nose. Elegantly balanced, medium-weight with a vivid acidity. Vivid, ripe-fruited flavour, aromatic, savoury, long and complex. Not a big Domaine de Chevalier Blanc but fresh, racy and harmonious, with excellent length. Should be accessible early, but we know they all keep and mature well too. 17