Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Unrivaled for sheer complexity and class on the nose; fabulous body and density but with a light, airy quality that gives this wine peerless elegance; crystalline but not thin. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Pale lemon; fine guava and grapefruit nose—rich and complete; a lovely balance of concentrated ripe fruit to vivid acidity; long, intense, dry yet ripe, vividly juicy fruit; complex, tenacious, aromatic, and with great length echoing all the fruit and minerality of the mid-palate. The third in a trio of first-rate white Domaine de Chevalier since 2006. 2018–30+. 18/18.5