Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Highly original, though not an easy wine to identify in a blind tasting at this stage. Body and colour have classic vintage firmness, but the aromas have yet to come out, releasing a transitory whiff of reduction that harms its chances of scoring as highly as some of its peers in this kind of contest. To be revisited in 6 months’ time, particularly given how well it has gone down with seasoned tasters on past occasions. There was no opportunity to retaste. 15.5

Margaret Rand: Spice and concentration, supple, medium weight, good length. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, sweetly ripe nose. Rich, well-balanced, medium-full wine with a fresh acidity and very firm, dry tannin. Ripe, savoury flavour, showing its class in its length across the palate and on the finish. But a worryingly high level of chewy tannin. Certainly a long-term Figeac. 16+?