Tim Atkin: Developed, garnet-rimmed red. Mature, feral, slightly gamey aromas, reminiscent of Pinot Noir. Autumnal, smoky palate, with evidence of sweet oak. Soft, touch of currant, but with fresh acidity. Fruit fading a little, but recognizably Rioja. Traditional. 15

Jesús Barquín: Medium to deep ruby with a brick-red rim. Lovely, classic Rioja nose, with the slightest note of volatile acidity that gives character and boosts expression. Spicy raw meat notes against a backdrop of red fruit. The palate is fleshy, lively, ample, and with a refreshing finish. Excellent opener (the first wine in the tasting). Traditional. 17.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: Dumb, quite fresh, slight, hard, dry finish. Coarse. 9