Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Slightly vegetal nose but not disagreeable, withatouch of honey. Very rich, rounded, full-bodied, silky, rather heavy, with an alcoholic tang on the finish. Also marred by this odd vegetal tone. Quite good length. 15

Simon Field: Generous golden hue, meaty, fulsome nose, hints of straw and capsicum. Legs and intimations of extract presage a texture that is confirmed on the palate, albeit with confident restraint. Slightly oily, spice à la Pinot Gris, but an altogether firmer and more disciplined mouthfeel. 17.5

Roy Richards: Yellow-gold tint. Ripe, peachy nose, which opened up on a second aeration. Creamy middle, balanced by keen acidity, not yet knit. Should be lively with time. 18