Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Rich nose of peaches, ripe apricots. Rich, super-ripe withatrace of sweetness, sleek and intense, quite high alcohol. There’s some hollowness here though little sign of age, but it also has an attractive tangy peppery finish. It could be fatiguing after a second glass! Quite good length. 16

Simon Field: Honeyed, rich, complex and extremely well integrated. Exotic, quixotic and generous. An almost Burgundian richness, with notes of butter and minerality. Expressive and long, eloquent and classical, almost too much of a good thing. 18

Roy Richards: Oily, brioche nose. More what one expects from a mature GV. Notes of undergrowth and truffle, like a late- picked Pinot Gris from Alsace. The alcohol remains a little detached despite inherent sweetness. 15