Nicolas Belfrage: No great aroma, though w hat there is is clean and attractive. The wine is slack and m odern without sacrificing typicity - firm acid and cherry fruit. Mouth-filling and co nsistent rig h t through, with fine tannins and very good length. A class act. 17

Stephen Brook: Deep red. Sweet, spicy, oaky nose of plums and mocha. On the palate, a supple attack; concentrated, lush and spicy. This has power and a tight structure, though the fruit is not very expressive now and it fades slightly on the finish, which is fairly dry and not harmonious. Quite good length. 16.5

Alison Buchanan: Black ruby-velvet with a dark rim. Sweet crem e brulee, pastry shop, pain au raisin nose. Very concentrated black and red fruits. Rather elegant, and a surprise. Savoury aromas on the palate. Lovely balance. This defies the big m odern style by being m odern and classic, though it has too much coffee to be spellbinding. 18.5