Andrew Jefford: Quite full gold. Strange, almost slightly beefy nose: muscular fruits, one would say. Grape fruit qualities, straightforw ard and insistent, yet very slightly savoury. Full, strong, vinous, forceful, with plenty of dry grapefruit at the end. No great effort to charm, though. Very square sides. 13

Simon Larkin : Deeper note to appearance. The fruit on the nose is quite restrained. The palate shows mouthwatering fruit, ripe citrus and green apple. Some poise with good balancing acidity. The fruit is elegant and expressive with mineral qualities revealed on the finish. Good persistence here and a very well-balanced example. Restraint, elegance but only modest purity. Sound, but nothing more. 14.5

Alexander Scott: We've left grapefruit behind, but here is something just as interesting, more sharply etched and high-toned. This is the epitome of Riesling grown on rock, as though the rock were liquefied in the glass. Extraordinarily cool and silky palate for this vintage, though there is clearly great ripeness, gently sustained to a perfectly fresh and harmonious finish. This doesn't shout (it is less obvious than the George Breuer Rauenthal Nonnenberg), but there is clearly some very natural winemaking going on here. The wine has a totally natural feel. 18