Andrew Jefford: Full gold, with lots of lemon glints. Super-attractive aromatic profile. There is something about the richness of this orange-and-peach scent that gives it an almost visceral appeal, though it loses that immediacy later. Very ripe and exotic, with the orange and peach having a crushed kernel-like bitter-edged, almost quinine appeal that I have found in one or two other wines. Evidently high alcohol makes this heady drinking, yet there is more than enough rich fruit complexity to engage the mind before the alcohol kicks in... Substance and persistence here, if not perhaps quite the fruity finesse. 17
Simon Larkin : No vast difference in hue; if anything, more golden. The aromas suggest that this is overblown. Heavy-styled, lacklustre fruit on the palate confirms this suspicion. Tangy, skinny, but little substance. A phenolic touch. Poor. Imprecise and cumbersome. 7
Alexander Scott: There’s not a lot to distinguish this from the Hattenheim Wisselbrunnen. We’re certainly in the same area and possibly in the same cellar. It’s rich and powerful (again with the sensation of residual sugar) and doubtless at the table would be very satisfying with a rich mushroom risotto, but in the tasting context I find it all a bit cloying. 15
Details
Wine expert | Andrew Jefford Simon Larkin Alexander Scott |
Tastings year | 2005 |
Region | Rheingau |