Stephen Brook: Lean nose, ripe citrus, backward. Juicy, reasonably fresh, rather broad, lacks some concentration, nice touch of lemon zest, reasonable acidity; sound but lacks excitement. Medium length. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Very pale and green for this stage of the game. Elegant and unusual scents of banana and candied pineapple (the heat! the heat!). Dense, full and concentrated, but a slightly hard-boiled character to the fruits here. The acidity is welcome and present in higher proportions than for many, yet the fruit follow-through does have a kind of confectionery simplicity. 13.5

Jancis Robinson: Broad, honeyed nose. A little simple and even flabby on the palate. Vive la tensionI Aggressive, rather green acidity. Not desperately sweet. Liquid Edinburgh rock, which is not a compliment. Drink 2008-17.15