Michel Bettane: Straw colour; classic, complex nose - quite vinous and rounded but slightly on the heavy side due to the dosage. Chalky, mineral character, but not as harmonious as some. 15

Simon Larkin : Gentle bead and a pale-gold appearance. Fresh bread and creamy fruit on the nose. Luxuriant mousse, good richness here too, rounded and creamy, with a clean dart of acidity. Impressive poise with a mineral vein expressed to the finish. A youthful example, withatrue sense of poise and drive. 15.5

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow-gold, pinprick bubbles. Fresh, with slightly mealy and appley undertones, elegant fruit flavours and softish, creamy mousse. Nice dry finish, with fresh acidity and some finesse to it. 15.5