Michael Edwards: An attractive à point Champagne from a ripe end season. Green/gold; fresh citrus ceding to candied fruits, especially lemon, quite seductive— tangy, pithy fruit with a welcome touch of phenolics, perhaps from the skins, to make up for the slight lack of acidity. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold; lively mousse. Dry stony notes, and something almost a little oniony, as if 5% Sauvignon had crept into the blend. The palate is clean and sinewy, but the fruit quality lacks some finesse; the flavors dissipate relatively swiftly, and the overall sense is of a wine whose raw materials weren’t quite the very finest. But I’d love a glass of it at the right moment; it is still a sound, elegant, well-crafted blanc de blancs, and the fruits hold well to the finish, where they counterpoint and perfume the mineral-salt notes. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Very, very rich style and a touch fat with a hint of VA. Has a lot going for it, but unfortunately it’s too much! 14