Michael Edwards: Pale yellow, lively mousse; an intriguing nose, lime, linden—quite dancing and energetic; fine mouthfeel, appetizing, crisp, salivating, a sense of the driving chalk: upright, propelling. A perfect apéritif, from a great young year—on the up. Exceptional. Splendidly digestible. 18

Andrew Jefford: Gold, with a lively seething mousse. Attractive, powdery aromas: a fine snow of milled chalk, vanilla, and green apple. Understated but comehither. That vigorous mousse is very apparent on the palate, which puffs and blows when you first sip like a harbor squall, but this is fine-grained, subtly textured brut nature blanc de blancs of impeccable balance and finesse, with a splendidly stony finish. The discreet fruit has an inner energy and litheness, too. There isn’t the out-and-out beauty of flavor and form for a top score, but this is excellent Champagne nonetheless. After a while in the glass, the mousse settles creamily, too. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Very rich, possibly too rich, but with the 2008 acidity and good pincushion mousse, it just about manages to keep its balance and energy. About as far removed from an apéritif style as anyone could imagine for a brut nature. Needs food! 15