Essi Avellan: Deep lemon color. Earthy-mineral nose with lemon, apple, and light oxidative notes. Very dry, austere palate. Foamy, big mousse. Sugar would help to bring charm. Too dry and hard. 13

Simon Field: Impressive golden color, with a gentle and persistent bead; an attractive, honeyed nose, with notes of praline, brioche, and hints of redcurrant. Palate is fulsome and incredibly rich for a nature style; most appealing. 17

Tom Stevenson: Creamy-biscuity aroma, balanced palate, nicely developed fruit; well-aged but not old, nothing austere, the gentle mousse leading to a gently creamy-rich finish. 18