Michel Bettane: A superb, classical Champagne: aristocratic, vinous and complete in every sense. Serve as an aperitif or throughout the meal. 17.5

Simon Larkin : Deep in appearance. Charry, toasty wood-derived aromas on the nose. The palate shows some evolution, with a good weight of minerally nuanced fruit. Discreet and nuanced, with a complex note to the palate that shows ample fruit and delineated acidity. Positive and lingering. One wonders where this would be without those toasty qualities. A poised style. 16

Anthony Rose: The nose is rather rustic, with faint mousey hints to it; decent fruit on the palate with slightly coarse fruit flavours in a rather traditional style, which for me ends rather flat and one-dimensional. 12