Michel Bettane: Clearly old, to judge from its colour - perhaps even overaged. Packed with rich biscuity aromas; fleshy and heavy but remaining classy. Ripe-tasting but with a uniform, Vouvray-like style. Not enough purity, though, and for all its typically English flavour, a bit on the bland side. 14

Simon Larkin : Very deep in appearance, with a real golden hue. Off-putting aromatics of oxidative, waxy fruit. A poor example, with an absence of purity and precision, really lacking in any genuine expression. Poor and easily dismissed - possibly faulty. 7

Anthony Rose: Yellow-gold, deepish colour. Some burned toast and marmalade characters. A rather old-fashioned style with dry fruit that ends up a little austere on the palate, and slightly unbalanced, showing a little too much gout anglais age for my liking and not going anywhere fast. 13