Michael Edwards: As its name implies, this wine is an introduction to the range. An assemblage of three successive vintages from Cramant, Avize, and Oger—all three, of course, grand cru Chardonnay—but generally from the lower coteaux. Deep clay soils give roundness and solidity without heaviness. A friendly, adaptable Champagne, admirably aged on lees for five to six years. Dosage 3.5–5g/l. A happy marriage on the night with rabbit stew with lovage.