Simon Field: Big meaty nose, the savoury notes bolstered by cherry and cedar. On the palate, there is plenty of grip, with robust black-fruit notes and a weight of spirit on the finish. Slightly clumsy overall; the required integration may be a long time coming. 13

Andrew Jefford: Dense, dark and sombre. Floral fragrance over the black fruits here, with cream and hint of incense: complex, unfolding aromas. Weighty, full, spicy, deep; lots of fruit, too, though the fruit is in a slightly simple, obvious style - blackcurrant pastilles. Nonetheless, this is carping about what is clearly very ambitious and well-crafted Vintage Port. 16

Richard Mayson: Deep opaque centre, thin purple rim. Still closed but with underlying power and intensity. Lovely soft, rich, fleshy fruit, already m ellowing but backed by hefty broad tannins. A very fine long-distance wine. Drink 2007-2025 plus. 17.5