Tim Atkin : Developed colour, with brownish rim. Developed nose, with notes of brown sugar, toasty oak and raisins. Also very ripe on the palate, but the fruit characters are soft and palate-coating, despite the high alcohol. Sweet, soft tannins. Drink now. 14.5

Oz Clarke: Good red, showing bottle age. The nose is not distinct but attractive. On the palate, pretty nice. It doesn’t set the world on fire but is an attractive, balanced red, but not entirely ripe. There is a certain vegetal undertone that sullies the pleasure of the fruit and oak. And the texture has just a touch of plastic (Bakelite, actually), which flattens an otherwise pleasant wine. The oak is quite toffee soft. 14

Michael Schuster: Brick-edged dark red; dumb nose, slightly milky oak; concentrated medium- to full-bodied wine with a very bright acidity and firm, dry, ’woody’ tannin; sweetly ripe fruit of moderate scope, marked by its alcoholic warmth and dry tannin; goodish, but structure of acid and tannin dominates the fruit. 14.5