Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Dense, brooding, cassis nose. Rich, suave, juicy, but also has ample freshness and lift. The oak is well integrated, as are the tannins. Not the most complex of Cabernets, but it has some purity and drive. Drinks well now, but no reason to suppose it won’t hold for some years to come. Quite good length. Coonawarra? 16

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-purple. Intense, warm, savory blackcurranty scents. Lovely ripeness and fruit purity. Vivid, lively, clean, deep, chunky, with the usual press of edgy acidity giving it its stark balance. This is nonetheless a wine of real fruit wealth and purity. Pristine, dark blackcurrant, cherry, and early-season plum; textured tannins; incipient fruit sweetness. With a more relaxed and sensual balance, this would merit an outstanding score. Coonawarra. 15

Anthony Rose: Good, youthful color, shading to ruby/garnet; fine, fresh, mulberry-fruity aromas; very vibrant and juicy mulberry and blackcurrant fruit on the palate. This wine has excellent concentration and flavor, with well-integrated oak and a lovely, juicy, moreish quality, in both its texture and flavors. Beautifully crafted, this has some of the elegance of, for example, Margaux, with a touch more Australian generosity and opulence—and yet, thanks to its elegant, (seemingly) natural acidity, it’s drinking beautifully and should do so for another five years. Margaret River? 18