Nicolas Belfrage: Super deep. Slightly drainsy on nose, fruit struggling to come out. Wild cherry fruit-acid, somewhat on the savory side, some drying tannins. Wine “scomposto” at this moment but that’s fine provided it comes together in, say, five years. Definitely not a pleaser now. 14

Roy Richards Appetising, blackberry fruit, this is youthful, nascent even. Needs another five years in bottle, but this is serious, unflashy example, which will repay patience. Clean lines and good muscle tone. 17

Franco Ziliani: Inky dark concentrated color overripe, plummy, toasty notes, not Sangiovese style at all. Totally flat, without energy and articulation on the palate, layers of ripe fruit, oak, no freshness, no balance. Another absurd modern Brunello interpretation. 10.5