Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Lanolin, fresh laundry, plum, and spice nose. Promising, but let down by a heavy palate. Impressive but not a lot of fun. 15

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink, tawny rim. Touch aggressive nose, with oak and smoke. Medium to full body, with clean red fruit and fairly long finish. A bit difficult to approach at this stage. 16

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. A big, exuberant Labrador of a nose, panting and partying away: plum sherbet, ham stock, glowing embers. Not the most classical, but hard not to like. Juicy, soft, exuberant, easy-access Brunello of winning energy and ripeness. There’s also a kind of throttle-down wealth of soft tannin at the end, inside which harbors a final flavory flourish you hadn’t thought was there. Gosh, what fun it is! 16