Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep, with definite orange rim. Interesting nose, slightly volatile, but carrying up other aromas such as dried rose petal and herb. Not as attractive now as it will presumably become, but it has excellent potential. Drink from 2017/18. 17

Bruno Besa: Garnet to pink rim. Broad, fairly elegant black-fruit nose, with toasted nuts, oriental spices, and hints of smoke. Mature palate, with sweet fruit and enough tannic grip. Clean prune-juicelike palate, with a defined finish. Good red; a bit overripe. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dark black-red. A mist of warm red fruits: enticing. Not refined, but enticing. On the palate, this is deep, long, both creamy and spicy, with lots of moist black licorice. A dense and exciting wine, its hallmark the ripe fruit and generous tannins of the vintage. There are wines of more poise and refinement on the table, but this is hugely enjoyable and has the gravity and seriousness you hope for from its tannic force, too, swinging into place at the end. 16