Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep with slight tendency to orange. Some classy oak on nose, ripe cherry fruit on palate with twist of bitter on finish, holds together well in mouth with good length and some elegance. Drink from 2013. 15

Stephen Brook: Subdued nose, with solid black fruit and some Indian spice. Sleek and textured, with elegance rather than power. It’s discreet and fresh, with ample acidity to lift the mid-palate. But it does lack a little concentration and fades on the finish. Pretty rather than profound. 15

Andrew Jefford: Clear red-black; medium depth. Soft rummaged earth, autumn leaves: a round-contoured aromatic profile, with a drift of alcoholic warmth. Deep, intense, driving, searching. Harmonious opening to the palate; toward the finish, it grows more leafy and bitter, but there is enough central-palate substance to carry these austerities. A classically proportioned Brunello with concentration, width, and innate complexity. This is packed with the teasing ripeness you hope for in a fine vintage here and that should bring further complexities in bottle 15.5