John Livingstone-Learmonth: Start of evolution on the robe. The bouquet works sideways as well as down; the red berries are compactly woven, and evoke quince and mulberry, with a little outer pepper. After two hours, has become very tight and dense, not open, but broad in form. The palate starts out roundly, with overt muscle and red fruit depth. The tannins are well woven, but there is still evidence of their quite youthful lining in the slightly hidden red fruit. Good, replete, and stylish wine that is broad all through, but comes with a fine touch. Muscular wine, from Lyon rather than Paris. From 2011. 2026–29. ***** (17–18.5)