John Livingstone-Learmonth: The robe is tawny. Holds a wide, silken, evolved aroma, led by plum jam, with ground coffee beans and toffee, also some fungal, not especially clean, notes. The palate is sealed, with red stone fruits, plum, nuts, and dates present. It persists really well, the texture is indeed woven and compact all through. Its richness is delivered with a tender touch—this is avery “sensible,” orderly wine. Some animal shows up late on—not excessive. A bit fundamental and reduced, a wine ofsome muscle and shoulders still. At first, there is a fungal manner, then it becomes more round and rich on the finish as itairs. Not for the squeaky clean brigade. 2023–26. ****** (19–20)