Ella Lister: Subtle, modest red hue—the opposite of showy. On the nose, this yields sensuous black fruit (cassis and blackberry jam) with exotic notes of incense and sandalwood. A sweet core of fresh fruit peeks through every so often. As the first wine of a 44-vintage tasting, it performs the job of waking up your mouth admirably, with juicy, mouthwatering acidity. A lively swish of silk across the palate.