Neal Martin: The ’98 Sassicaia has a lovely bouquet of wild blackberries, melted tar, walnut, and smoke that soars from the glass with great clarity. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine, silky tannins, moving into a secondary phase, with scorched leather, tar, a touch of tobacco, and spice toward the finish. Some lovely torrefactory notes on the finish, the mouth tingling with spice on the exit. This is simply gorgeous. 18