Neal Martin: This was the first vintage where the alcohol level exceeded 14%. It has a light nose, with truffle-scented black fruits, a hint of tobacco leaf, and a faint tang of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied, with firm tannic structure: dark-cherry fruit, a touch of cooked meat, good acidity, and noticeably sinewy toward the dense, almost broody finish. This 2003 is presently rather introspective but will surely come into its own after another three or four years. 17