Neal Martin: The 2004 has a ripe, quite rich and rounded plum, blackberry, licorice-tinged bouquet, with a little dark chocolate and espresso and superb precision. The palate is fullbodied, rounded, and supple on entry, with notes of blackberry, dark chocolate, a touch of spice, and leather. Very smooth and lithe toward the sensuous, harmonious finish. The ’04 is elegant and suave but deserves another 5–8 years in the cellar. 18