Ella Lister: Hypnotic and alluring, with Pomerolesque red fruit, tobacco, freshness, and carnality. A nose that clears your head like the fresh spray from a rockpool, with a touch of salinity, too. Poised to perfection, with gentle power building up and up and then gracefully melting, slowly, slowly, on to a long clean finish that you could bathe in. Juicy, succulent, moreish fruit.