Bruce Schoenfeld: There’s an Amontillado quality to this wine that I don’t think you want in your Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as saliva-sucking tannins that either come from excessive skin contact or too much time in new oak for the characteristics of the grapes. So, why do I find it appealing? I love the aromatic lift to it, whiffs of orange peel and clove, and the high-toned fruit and rich savory notes that would make it a perfect match for game. It’s a wine with a strong personality—anything but generic. I’d be interested to try a bottle over a meal.