Bruce Schoenfeld: From an unloved vintage that produced wines with higher-than-desirable acid and some untamed tannins, this has mellowed beautifully. It’s a complete wine now, round and sweetly fruity, with a pretty touch of digestif-like amargo at the finish. Even at 13% ABV, the flavors are all red: currants, cranberries, and a hint of sour cherry. It was aged almost entirely in new oak, but there’s no hint of that now. This wasn’t a great era for Cabernet-based wines anywhere in the world. Of all of them between, say, 1975 and Bordeaux’s standout 1982 vintage, I don’t think there are many that remain as appealing as this today.