Bruce Schoenfeld: This vintage of Mondavi Reserve is on the cusp of making the transition from a middle-aged wine to an old one, and not successfully. The coffee and cooked fruit on the nose are unappetizing. It’s a well-made wine, and the finish is admirably long— but if a flavor is going to linger in my mouth after I spit or swallow, I’d prefer a delicious one. This was considered a very good vintage in its day, and the Cabernet Sauvignon—which is nearly 86% of the final blend, augmented by 14% Merlot—achieved full ripeness at 12.7% ABV. But it hasn’t aged gracefully.