Bruce Schoenfeld: This wine marks the exact midpoint of the winery’s 50-year history. From a vintage that was considered one of the finest yet at the time, it’s very good—but I can’t help thinking it ought to be better. It’s hard to tell if the wine is still youthful enough to be holding something back, or if it’s giving all it has and that isn’t quite enough. It’s a lovely translucent crimson, and there’s a bit of cherry cola and mint that identifies it as a member of the family. (This was the last vintage before the eucalyptus trees on the Mondavi property were removed.) I like the weight and the mouthfeel. But there’s nothing especially compelling about it either aromatically or in the mouth, and as I returned to it over the course of 90 minutes, it didn’t offer anything new. Disappointing.