Bruce Schoenfeld: A young, black wine made in a full-throttle style, with 15% ABV and all-new oak. The confected blueberry and blackberry flavors are appealing now, though I’m not convinced they will be in a decade or so. The best of these wines transcend stylistic preference, to the extent that stylist preference can be transcended, but this is a Napa Cabernet lover’s Napa Cabernet. Give it an hour in the decanter, grill a thick American steak, and revel in its utter dissimilarity to classic claret, for that’s what a world’s worth of wine regions is for.