Bruce Schoenfeld: This is Napa Cabernet as Burgundy. From an exalted vintage that has proven more uneven as time has passed, it was a pristine bottle that seemed closer to two decades old than to four. The wine had that ineffable combination of earthiness, elegance, and clarity most often found in great Pinot Noir, as well as a touch of greenness that, if you paid close enough attention, identified the variety as Cabernet Sauvignon. The finish had a long fade-out, like a ’60s pop song.