Jesús Barquín: Straw-yellow, almost transparent. The nose shows an annoying note of burned matchstick. This is less prominent on the palate, but the wine is still rather flat, with flavors of Mediterranean scrubland, fat mouthfeel, and simple finish. 80

Andrew Jefford: Pale steel green-gold. Slightly strange scents of vulcanized plastic from somewhere or another; not enticing. The palate, though, is more attractive than the nose suggested it would be, with some lemony breadiness. Correct if not outstanding. 84

Peter Liem: This feels a little stunted by its filtration: while it shows a pleasingly saline character and a delicate nuance of flavor, it also appears stubbornly reticent and reserved from start to finish. I feel like I’m looking at it through a semiopaque window, and I want to see it more clearly. Will it emerge further with additional bottle age, I wonder? 87