Jesús Barquín: Chestnut. The nose displays candied fruit and a sweetness later confirmed by the palate. As with some other examples of this tasting, this is very old and powerful, of unquestionable noble character and likely to appeal to a wider audience—but honestly I would rather have a wild and racy bone-dry version of it. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid-depth of pale walnut. Vanilla tobacco scents: just right for pipe-smoking Dutchmen. Attractive but relatively simple aromatic profile, with a little raisiny sweetness beneath. This is another wine whose flavors seem just eased into a little round sweetness at the edges. The core is dry, intense, long, and more concentrated than many, but rather sheer and featureless, like the ice on the side of the luge run. I don’t find this as moreish as most of these wines. 13

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber, with an olive-green rim; soft, demure savory aromas, slightly dusty in character, with a hint of raisins. A touch soupy in style initially, but this builds nicely in the mouth to a powerful tangy finish withatouch of not-unattractive rusticity. A distinguished and complex wine with plenty of charm and character. 17