Simon Field: Soft coppery coloring and an attractive encyclopedic nose that marries the flowers and dried fruit pleasingly, with a measured spoonful of brown sugar. En bouche, a delicate, almost ethereal quality, supremely elegant, but with sufficient structure to render it fit for (postprandial) purpose. 17

Richard Mayson: Amber-tawny center; broad, green-tinged rim. Open, complex, singed fruit on the nose. Similarly singed on the palate; quite rich, but with a rustic undertone on the finish. Plenty of character here. 15

Margaret Rand: Powerful and rich: a heavyweight. There is subtlety here, but it’s the subtlety of depth and solidity—no sign of frailty. Impressive. 16.5